Day 14 : High Leven (Yarm) to York YHA, 53 miles, overcast, dull and mild

Good journey over the top of the Yorkshire Moors on Route 65 via Hutton Rudby, 
Swainby followed by some very steep climbing sections to 

Swainby Village Store - source of my ham salad sandwich for lunch today.

Osmotherley just a little beyond Yorkshire Water Cod Beck Reservoir where there is an a slightly off-road section on Route 65. Here I looked out for a little a sausage dog that had escaped his owner's lead and onto the higher ground. 
The journey across the top of the moors was very pleasant despite the weather.

It can get a little lonesome when the weather is like this ...one of my companions for the day!

One of the gentler hills before getting to the top of the moors

The first really steep downhill section - given the wieght I was carrying on the bike, the wet road and the mud etc I had to take these very slowly!

Although there were a few stretches of steep downhill before I reached the White Horse Hill above Kilburn nothing had really prepared me for the lengthy and severity of this drop - perhaps the home of the Yorkshire Gliding Club at the top should have been an obvious clue and the faces on the ten or so horse riders who had just made it to the top. Apparently in the Milk Race a few years ago riders effortlessly tackled this climb.
(very steep downhill by the white horse) and then along to Easingwold which was very pleasant. 

Looking back towards the hill, a little indistinct in the gloom, from Kilburn village

The ride down past Linton-on-Ouse to York was then fairly simple.

Approaching York, I was reminded that it was a long way back to Edinburgh and I hadn't in fact taken the most direct route. The did note that the four track mainline here was particularly quiet for the whole time I passed. 

Bootham Bar - one of the gates in York City Walls provides access into High Petergate.

West end of York Minster whose bells were ringing out loud and clear and could easily be heard from the YHA a  mile away.

Still some reoccurring issues with the back axle on the bike which I hope to get fixed whilst I'm in York. I've found a place on the internet that looks promising so here's hoping. 
At the recommendation of Jane, who studied Psychology at York University, I had fish and chips for supper buying these from Drake's in Low Petersgate.   

Day 12: Hexham to Castle Eden : 56 miles, overcast, dry(-ish!)

I was joined for my ride today by my brother Major (retired) Angus and nephew Robert, who is studying Civil Engineering at University. Before heading off on route 72, or Hadrian's Cycleway, we had a hearty breakfast in Hexham. I also took an opportunity to look around Angus's hard work in the garden - although there didn't appear to be any gooseberries left. The weather today remained fine but slightly overcast - so no need for waterproofs again..

Angus and Robert in Corbridge market square. Corbridge is a jewel in the crown of Northumberland. It grew from the Roman town of Corstopitum, a supply town for the troops on Hadrian's Wall. In the thirteenth century Corbridge was second only to Newcastle in wealth and its citizens were heavily taxed to help pay for Edward 1's Scottish wars and its mediaeval street plan is much the same today. The bridge at Corbridge is the oldest of the mediaeval bridges which became derelict by the 17th century, and was finally replaced in 1674.

The section of route 72 we followed follows the River Tyne through Corbridge, Bywell and Ovingham and Prudhoe - we decided to ride up on a short diversion to near the course of Hadrian's Wall high above Corbridge. The view was well worth it and we returned to the main trace through Newton to Bywell. 

We had some good fun although Robert did particularly well given the number of gears available on his bike was restricted to just a couple of high ones - in the above photo there are a couple of horses being caught up. After a good 12 miles or so we said farewell at Prudhoe where the cycle route becomes traffic free right along to South Shields. 
From Wylam to Newburn, the route follows the old North Wylam Branch Railway.

The wrought iron Wylam Railway Bridge (1876), also known locally as Points Bridge, Half-moon Bridge, Hagg Bank Bridge, Bird Cage Bridge, or The Tin Bridge, is a footbridge and former railway bridge crossing the River Tyne at Hagg Bank. I recall cycling over this 28 years ago when I used to spend too much time in and around the Boathouse Pub in Wylam.

The 18th century stone cottage was the birthplace (June 1781) and home of rail pioneer George Stephenson. It is owned by the National Trust and is situated along the waggonway (correct spelling) some 0.5 miles east of Wylam Railway Bridge.

I enjoyed the rest of the journey into the heart of the Quayside districts of Newcastle and Gateshead. There were a lot of people out on their bikes and enjoying the sunshine and the market in and around the many bridges.

Gateshead Millemium Bridge opened September 2001 and cost £22m to build by Volker Stevin. It was conceived and designed by architects Wilkinson Eyre and structural engineers Gifford. The bridge is sometimes referred to as the 'Blinking Eye Bridge'.

I continued to follow route 72 towards the coast, seeing the huge Duco and Shepherd offshore facilities down towards Swan Hunters and other famous names of the past ship building heritage of the lower Tyne. It also looks like good progress has been made in constructing the new and second Tyne Tunnel at Jarrow.
At this point I turned to the south and headed towards a place near Castle Eden south of Peterlee. The old Caste Eden brewery is now an Italian restaurant although I didn't stop to see if the food was a good as the beer.
The quality of the signage and paths of cycle ways deteriorated significantly near to Hetton-le-Hole. Unfortunately it was around this time that I lost a spoke on the rear wheel, just next to the chain block for those who know, and I couldn't fix it my the side of the road. In the end I limped in to my accommodation, near to the sea, rather tired and exhausted at 18.30 after a great ride earlier in the day. Tomorrow I'll need to sort it all out and perhaps lose some weight from the bike (thanks Angus for the observations and advice - you were right!). 

Day 3 : Kirkwall to Tongue : 75 miles, strong north-westerly gale

That wind was still going strong when I got up at 05.30, saddled my bags and put on the lights.
Whilst I received benefit during my 15 mile 'sprint' to catch the Pentland Ferries's 08.00 crossing (need to be there by 07.30) from St Margaret's Hope to Gill's Bay (5 miles west of John O'Groats), it really made the rest of the 60 miles extremely difficult and cold. In fact the joy of getting to the top of many arduous summits battling against the wind was eliminated by the fact that I needed to cycle hard down hill to get anywhere.
Selected engineering highlights of the day for me were:
1. Churchill Barriers

Churchill barriers 1942-45; the roads were diverted to link to the barriers, which were located at the shortest distance between the islands. Presumably these were built to secure Scapa Flow following the early loss of 833 lives on HMS Royal Oak - poignantly commemorated in Kirkwall's Magnus Cathedral I noticed the day before.

Castlehill Harbour - a home of export of sandstone flagstone

2.       Castlehill harbour adjacent to Castletown

The 19th century saw boom years for Caithness as a source of flagstone. Much of the stone was processed in the harbour area of the village of Castletown, and many of the streets of London, Sydney, Edinburgh & the financial district of New York City are paved with it. The harbour was built by James Bremner.

3. Dounreay

Home to the UK's research and development into fast breeder reactor technology, materials etc.
Not a lot to see here except the scale of the place is significantly greater than I had expected. 
I hadn't recognised before there is also a MoD Royal Navy Vulcan Naval Reactor Test Establishment (NRTE) - it looks like is still very much operational.  

Information sources - Panel of Historical Engineering Works (PHEW)

These books, from a series that covers the whole of the British Isles, are an invaluable source of useful and informative information. 'The visionary projects that created opportunities for trade and wealth creation' mainly over 30 years old are recorded.